Round and about the boulders

Recently, a final-year university student said the best thing about studying at Otago is, initially, the partying, but with time becomes the beauty of the area. 

Moeraki hits that spot.

It’s been the site of untold visits. 

Locals whakapapa to Waitaha, Kāti Māmoe, Kāi Tahu and the Pākehā whalers, among many others.

The Moeraki population benefitted from battles beginning in 1828 at a Kāi Tahu base near Christchurch.

Ngāti Toa, of today’s Wellington area, and Kāi Tahu fought at Kaiapohia, today’s Kaiapoi. 

This scattered Kāi Tahu. 

By the time whalers arrived in 1836 a small Kaiapohia hapu was living at Moeraki and others were to come and go in future. 

Wider Kāi Tahu has continued to evolve and now runs a huge business enterprise.

The whalers had a good eye for business too. 

They chose a prime headland with wide sea views not too far off 360°. The Millenium Walk starts here.

It’s a two-hour return walk.

There are so many different sights it feels like a tiki tour.

It starts with a "dogs on leash" sign and clifftop views, meaning a reverse climb on the return journey. 

You pass an old pā site, now used for helicopter landings.

There’s a playground, food outlets and a mini Abel Tasman-like golden beach to cross.

Some of it goes along ex-railway line and some of it through follow-your-nose territory.

Stick roughly to the coastline and you’ll get there.

Pending lowish tides, a final beach walk leads to the Moeraki boulders, Te Kaihīnaki, the baskets and water containers of the capsized waka Ārai-te-uru. 

Solid large bubbles appear to pop up out of the sand. 

They’re the cementation of mudstone over millions of years.

The walk peaks with the sheer wonder of a brand new boulder being expelled from the bank.

It’s hard not to stare. Fortunately the phone rang.