I enjoy mixing up my tasting lineups, as I enjoy mixing up the wines I drink with dinner: sometimes weather and the mood might suggest bubbles, another day white, or another red, and here we have all three.
There’s a newish addition to the bubbles market with the French house Mumm releasing its first Otago bubbly and chardonnay from Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, while a trio of Central pinots conclude things.
NV Mumm Cuvee Central Blanc de Noirs
Rating Excellent
Fragrant brioche,
wisps of lanolin,
smoke, underlying
berryfruit. Rich in the
mouth matched by
vibrancy and
crispness. On the one
hand there’s honey
on brioche, on the
other raspberry acid
drops, apple and a
long, tingly sherbetty
citrus finish. The fruit
notes build, nicely
balanced by the
toastiness. Nicely
done and very
appealing.
2022 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Old Vines Reserve Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Classy, perfumed oak
leads, bran biscuit,
caraway seed perhaps,
tropical fruits, clotted
cream. A fat and rich
nose, yet the palate takes
a cooler path, nectarine
flesh joins tropical fruits,
biscuity/nutty notes with
a rapier thrust of acidity
keeping this vibrant. The
nose swells, the palate
fruit sweet yet tangy,
flavours hang in the
mouth. Youthful, would
like to see this in the
future.
2022 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Smoke and white
flowers, subtlety,
adding grilled nuts.
Lime zest and grapefruit
start the palate journey,
a touch of fruit-pithy
phenolics adding to the
texture, fruit flavours in
a riper spectrum. Nice
tingliness on the long
carry. Dreaming of this
with a dish of sole fillet.
Returning to this, it
dances in the mouth,
there’s a sense of
effortlessness and
balance. You really
want another glass.
2021 McArthur Ridge Southern Tor Alexandra Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A sense of refinement,
savoury notes, smoke,
rhubarb, plum, licorice,
shifting to subtler red
fruits and fragrance. A
cool feel, lovely depth
of flavour yet pinosity
and lightness of feel ...
weightlessness. A fine
elegant frame,
surprising chewiness
picking up some oak
toast notes and wild
thyme, balance and
length. A wine to take
your time over.
2021 Aces & Arrows Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Subtlety to this,
youthful, hints of char,
perfume and spice
developing. The palate
steps up to the plate,
there’s richness and
fruit intensity within a
medium-weight frame,
framed by some charry
oak. With time dried
fruits come into play
which accentuate its
sweetly fruited qualities.
This is a real crowd
pleaser that hits the
button for immediate
drinkability.
2022 McArthur Ridge Brassknocker Alexandra Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Fragrant and refreshing,
mixed fruits, spice, oak
nuances, rhubarb
perhaps, it feels bright
and open. The palate
echoes the nose, bright
and fresh, crisp acidity
creating a zesty quality
that’s a nice
counterpoint to the fruit
sweetness while a
touch of tamarillo
tanginess enlivens the
finish. Honest, heart on
its sleeve stuff, plenty
here to enjoy now.
