He wasn’t a fan of sauvignon blanc but was routinely allotted that category in wine shows because he wasn’t influenced by his own subjectivity.
He was able to maintain objectivity, and judged according to the class in the glasses.
I personally very rarely reach for a pinot gris: there are quite simply too many other wines that I have a personal preference for.
Hopefully that means that I can taste them with an open objective mind, while looking for class in the glass.
2022 Jules Taylor Marlborough Pinot Gris
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Bright, fresh stonefruit
aromas, pear, a hint of
cashew nut, growing
perfume, flower
petals. Quite beguiling,
a touch more subtle
with time. Nice
creamy entry, less
expressive than and
drier than the
impression that the
nose gives. Wisps of
fruit pastille meld with
stonefruit on a
medium-bodied
frame. That dry,
refreshing quality to
the fore.
2022 Montana ‘M’ Marlborough Pinot Gris
Rating Excellent
Youthfully expressive
nose, pear, juicy fruit
gum, wine gums. The
flavours jump out of
the glass, pear, red
apple, flecks of
citrus, some stony
minerality and a little
nutty undercurrent.
Nicely balanced, fruit
sweet yet relatively
dry with good flavour
intensity and palate
weight. A tingly
element on the close
keeps this lively. Post
reveal, value for
money here.
2022 Ara Single Estate Marlborough Pinot Gris
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Subtle yet engaging
nose, wisps of rose-
petal & Turkish delight
lift the fragrance. Nice
texture & an attractive
tangy aspect that
combines well with the
sweet fruit. Integrated
and very easy drinking.
Aeration allows the
flavours to build nicely,
while the inherent
sweetness becomes
more evident. A good
choice for those
preferring a touch of
sweetness.
2022 Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Gris
Rating Very Good to Excellent
This takes a different
path, smoke and
wild yeast ferment
notes, nashi pear,
full cream, spice,
quite interesting.
Bright in the mouth,
crisp, dry, refreshing
adding some green
apple notes. Stays
dry in the mouth yet
there’s sweet lift on
the close contrasted
by an almondy
bittersweet element.
Nice focus and very
refreshing.
2021 Domaine Rewa The French Potter Series Pinot Gris
Rating Excellent
Quite a different
expression, stewed
apples, almond,
spices, stony gravels,
less fruit driven and
more about the other
elements. Sweet fruit
entry, then a zesty
counterpoint with a
grainy, pithy quality
to the texture,
deceptive power and
a long finish. A little
out of my experience
and difficult to judge
as a pinot gris per se,
yet fascinating.
2022 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris
Rating Very Good
Smoky, burnt toffee,
nutty, a sweet fruit
backdrop. Different
from the rest of the
lineup with a clay-
like earthy quality, a
suggestion of oak
influence leading to a
nutty bittersweet
close. A nice creamy
mouthfeel, the wine
seems less about the
fruit than the textural
impact. Light to
medium-bodied and
should pair nicely
with food.
