"I think the numbers will surprise most who see them," New Zealand fashion industry stalwart Juliette Hogan says from her Auckland workroom.
"Which is necessary to change the general sentiment towards our industry’s impact."
She’s referring to a newly released report that has raised eyebrows for its unexpected findings, conducted by Mindful Fashion NZ (MFNZ), a collective entity founded in 2018 by fellow designers Kate Sylvester and Emily Miller-Sharma of RUBY/Liam, and of which Hogan serves on the board as chairwoman.
Key findings from the "Threads of Tomorrow" report show the fashion sector’s direct impact in 2023 added $7.8 billion to the economy, accounting for 1.9% of the GDP and that $4.4 billion is paid in wages, with 76,011 workers employed. Of that workforce, the report shows 78% is female, demonstrating that women’s economic empowerment is intrinsically linked to the sector.
Hogan calls the report "invaluable for our industry".
"It’s not just a fashion story but a business story and when you see the numbers that are being talked about it’s clear that the economic and cultural contribution the industry makes to New Zealand is immense. This industry has outperformed the recognition that we receive and it’s exciting to have the potential laid out in this report."
She says the industry "is one that is full of such creativity, talent, potential and promise," but, as for many businesses and industries at the moment, the economic downturn is proving difficult.
"We have seen the impacts of this firsthand with the news of some beloved NZ brands closing and the recent cancellation of this year’s New Zealand Fashion Week."
The report looks at current challenges and also shows the opportunities by shining a light on the importance of the industry.
"We will make it through this period, but it’s much easier to do this as a collective than alone," Hogan says.
"That the New Zealand fashion, clothing and textiles industry is comparable as a sector to supermarket and specialty foods, to building construction, is significant. It shows that the contribution and value of this industry has been overlooked for too long."
The organisation started out as a small group with a common vision.
"We now number over 100 business members from across New Zealand. Our mission from the start has been to unite the industry and work together to ensure its fit for the future — an innovative, full-circle and thriving future. That was our north star in 2019 and it still is today."
As it has grown more businesses have seen the value in collective action and collaboration.
"This has given us a louder platform to engage with the government on key issues, or with partners to build solutions for the industry."
Over the past five years the industry has learned that it needed evidence to prove the depth and contribution of the sector so it could effectively advocate for policies and government engagement to tackle industry challenges and reach its full potential.
"This was the catalyst for ‘Threads of Tomorrow’."
"We have given SMEs [small- and medium-sized enterprises] tools and provided education to support sustainability action — for example our education seminars on sustainable materials and digital design to reduce waste, our Climate Action Toolkit and the development of micro-credentials for technical machinist skills.
"Now with Threads of Tomorrow we’ve also given the industry the recognition it deserves in terms of size, scale and impact, and a practical tool that all businesses can use in their own efforts."
Hogan says it’s "a privilege" to lead the MFNZ board and be actively involved in contributing to its strategy.
"The MFNZ mission really speaks to me, and played a major part in why I decided to join."
The industry has been notoriously competitive, with huge barriers for new designers to enter and build their brand."
The mission of MFNZ is to foster a sustainable and thriving industry, which includes lessening those barriers.
"I agree that a collective response to uplifting the fashion community is needed — and when we work together we can achieve far more than we would be able to individually.
"I’ve had my fair share of bumps along the road with my own brand, so I can really understand the issues newcomers and well-established brands go up against trying to survive."
"This is something to be acknowledged."
Perriam says joining MFNZ was "a no-brainer".
"We’re a New Zealand-made knitwear brand so the fashion industry here is really paramount to our business. We’re really passionate about ‘NZ-made’ and we want to see the industry within New Zealand flourish."
She is concerned the industry in New Zealand is getting smaller and smaller by the day.
"We are dedicated to supporting not just the fashion industry itself, but also the individuals and workers within it. While offshore production may have been an option, it doesn’t align with our values, particularly as we witness the detrimental impact of fast fashion on both our industry and the environment."
Yet she is seeing more and more factories and workers shutting up shop in New Zealand.
"We think this is really sad. It’s hard for them to compete with cheap imports and manufacturing and I really believe that once they’re gone, they’re gone, and it will take a lot to come back from that. We’re losing skilled workers and we can’t let that happen."
"We’re finding it hard to get manufacturers for certain products, which will inevitably mean we have to look offshore for some production. We don’t want to do this, but if it’s the only option and the manufacturing units aren’t here then that’s the only choice, and that’s really sad."
For Perriam, signing up to MFNZ meant "being part of a community that we can learn from and get some support".
"As a small NZ-made business we’ve found there is very little support, so we were thrilled to join," she says.
FitzGerald says the "Threads of Tomorrow" report has come at a critical turning point for the industry.
"We know that the industry is facing significant challenges. This report highlights opportunities that we want to make sure are realised and support the development of thriving businesses that are good for people and nature."
The group hopes the industry will continue to come together to collaborate and make the actions in the report a reality.
"We are a small nation full of agile businesses so are perfectly positioned to grow our competitive advantage and take our world-leading products to consumers around the globe."
And for everyday consumers of fashion wishing to support the local industry, FitzGerald’s advice is simple.
"Buy from local businesses. Learn about local businesses and what makes them special.
"Invest in the best quality you can afford and take care of your clothes."
