Transforming humble to hero

Italian chef and restaurateur Gennaro Contaldo.

There is so much more to vegetables than a few bland boiled offerings served on the side, Gennaro Contaldo says.

The Italian chef and restaurateur, known for his work with Jamie Oliver, is out to prove that with his latest book, Verdure.

"In Italy, no-one serves plain boiled vege — it is always flavoured or made into something more substantial."

Just as Italy has great diversity in landscape and climate, it has an array of produce which helped shape its cucina povera tradition, where the little that was available was transformed into incredible dishes, he says.

"Vegetables were, of course, essential to cucina povera as they were often homegrown or easily and cheaply obtainable and consumed in place of expensive meat."

When Contaldo, a father of two now living in East London, was growing up in Italy, meat was usually only served on Sundays and they had fresh fish on Fridays so vegetables played a big part in his diet.

"When I see a head of broccoli or an aubergine in the fridge, I see meal possibilities. It’s amazing what you can create with such humble ingredients; a broccoli can easily be turned into baked pasta dish for four or blended into a soup; aubergines can be stuffed or made into the classic parmigiana.

"You don’t need much to create tasty vegetable dishes and, as long as you have a few basic ingredients in your store cupboard and fridge, effortlesss and nutritious meals can be rustled up in no time."

Contaldo is a great believer in buying produce when it is in season, as it is fresher, cheaper and more sustainable — and it will also taste better.

"Cooking with all this fresh produce helps to maintain a healthy, nutrient-rich diet."

While the book concentrates on vegetables, he follows the cucina povera tradition including a little meat such as pancetta, parmesan or maybe anchovies to quite a few dishes.

He has broken the book up into chapters based on the colours of vegetables.

For each vegetable he includes information about its history, how to use, buy, store, prepare and cook it, followed by a few recipes showcasing that vegetable.

While most of the recipes are savoury, there are a few sweet ones showcasing the versatility of some vegetables such as a sweet potato and chocolate loaf cake, a carrot and almond cake or a sweet chard tart.

The book

Gennaro’s Verdure: Big and bold recipes to pack your plate with veg by Gennaro Contaldo (Pavilion Books). Images: David Loftus

Gnocchi di spinaci (spinach gnocchi)

This delicious potato-less gnocchi is made with the classic combination of spinach and ricotta. Simple to prepare, just remember to squeeze out the excess liquid from the cooked spinach before mixing with the rest of the ingredients. Serve with tomato sauce for a hearty meal.

Serves 4

Ingredients

250g frozen spinach

250g tub ricotta

1 egg

40g grated Parmesan, plus extra for sprinkling

Pinch of grated nutmeg

Sea salt

250g "00" flour, plus extra for dusting

For the tomato sauce

2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

400g can chopped tomatoes

Sea salt

Method

First make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and sweat the garlic for a minute or so, then add the tomatoes with a little water (rinsed from the can) and a little salt. Cover with a lid and cook over a medium-low heat for about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the gnocchi. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and cook the frozen spinach for about 5 minutes until defrosted and cooked through.

Drain well, squeezing out the excess liquid with your hands, then finely chop.

Place the spinach in a large bowl with the ricotta, egg, Parmesan, nutmeg and a little salt, and gradually add in the flour. Mix well until you get a smooth, soft dough.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a long sausage shape. Using a sharp knife, cut into 2.5cm lengths. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and drop the gnocchi into the water in batches, simmering until they rise to the top.

Using a slotted spoon, lift the gnocchi out of the water and transfer to a dish. Pour over the tomato sauce and gently mix.

Serve immediately with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan, if you like.

Tortino di piselli (pea soufflés)

These pea soufflés won’t collapse when you take them out of the oven (like most soufflés) so would be perfect for a dinner party, or a simple midweek family meal.

Makes 6

Ingredients

30g (10z) butter, plus extra for greasing

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 small shallots, finely chopped

600g (11b 50z) frozen peas

2 eggs, separated

150g (5/20z) ricotta

50g (1¾ oz) grated Parmesan

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Pea shoots to finish (optional)

Method

Photo: Getty Images

Preheat the oven to 160°C fan/180°C. .

Heat the butter and olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and sweat the shallots for about 3 minutes until softened, then stir in the peas and cook for about 5-7 minutes until tender.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until stiff, then set aside.

Scoop 4 tablespoons of the cooked pea mixture into a bowl and set aside, then blend the rest to a smooth purée.

Place the ricotta, Parmesan and egg yolks in a large bowl.

Mix in the blended peas and season with salt and pepper, then fold in the stiffened egg whites and whole peas.

Grease 6 ramekin dishes with butter and divide the mixture between them.

Place the ramekins in an ovenproof dish or roasting tin and fill with hot water to reach halfway up the ramekin dishes.

Bake in the oven for 30 minutes until well risen and slightly golden, with cracks forming on the top.

Remove from the oven, lift the ramekin dishes out of the dish/tin and carefully flip over on to a serving dish, or you can serve directly in the ramekin dishes.

Top with pea shoots, if you like.

Torta di carote e mandorle (carrot and almond cake)

Delicately light and healthy, this easy carrot cake would be perfect with a morning coffee or at teatime. I like to use the Italian raising agent known as Paneangeli, with its delicate vanilla flavour, and it should be obtainable from Italian delis and international shops. Otherwise, regular baking powder will work just fine.